Why Hybrid Size Charts Mislead Shoppers: Alpha vs Numeric Sizing Explained

Author: Sue Kagan CEO

If you've ever stared at a size chart wondering whether you're a numeric 10 or a medium, you're not alone. Most online retailers merge numeric sizes (like 6, 8, 10) with alpha sizes (S, M, L) into a single chart—but this hybrid approach is misleading, often up to 50% inaccurate. As a seasoned fit consultant, I’ve seen how this confusion directly impacts consumer confidence, return rates, and brand trust.

Design Cycle Solutions is founded on fixing these industry issues. Lets take a moment to review why size charts are mess and how they fail to assist buyers to make purchases that don’t get returned.

Brands will often create a hybrid chart for alpha sizing based on numeric value, but do not always know the math differences between actual sizes. Often times letting a factory handle those issues in development. By overlooking this detail, the brand maybe creating more waste and higher returns as a result of cutting corners in development data.

We also need to look at design intent related to products. For example a oversized snuggly poncho is not the same as a roomy sweatshirt. So, my alpha size relationship to body is different. This aspect of communicating fit as intended may require a unique chart to be tied to a item.

Numeric and alpha sizes were never meant to be interchangeable. Here's why combining them causes more harm than good:

• Different design intents: The way a pattern is make for a S,M, L, blazer has different math than a 38, 40, 41, and etc. sized blazer. Different math makes different shapes.

• Numeric sizing is used for tailored, body-conscious garments. Woven materials that need a well fitted look. Pants, Suits, undergarments, and dresses are key items using Numerics

• Alpha sizing is reserved for looser, less structured silhouettes. T-shirts, sweats, loose woven tops, and knits are key alpha sizing products.

• False equivalency: Merging these systems suggests that a numeric 10 equals a medium—but that’s rarely true across styles or brands.

• Inconsistent grading: Grading is a differential between sizes. Depending on the product size and pattern method, the grading is varied and looks mathematically different between a alpha size and numeric size.

• Consumer confusion: Shoppers rely on these charts to make confident choices. Instead, they’re left guessing—leading to unnecessary returns.

• Lack of measurement transparency: Brands often fail to provide clear guides or visuals showing how a numeric “10” compares to a “M” in actual dimensions. Body scanners on mobile devices often fail to deliver actual specs that let the user connect to a garment. Our research and data shows that scan companies only want to scan a body and lack understanding in apparel design.

Design Cycle Solutions has paved a path for more than 20 years in brand sizing development and tracking success in sales and returns as a result. If your company needs assistance to lower returns and increase sales, through better communication, please contact Sue@designcyclesolutions.com